River runs shallow

Back to my 'Indochine 2012' blog

Chiang Khong, Thailand
Friday, April 6, 2012

Once the capitol of Laos, Luang Prabang has lost its supposed former metropolitan flare, and is now a small, quaint and cosy town, situated where the rivers Mekong and Namkhong meet.
The rivers are what gives Luang Prabang its atmosphere; sunset cruises, kayaking and fishing are on display at the numerous tour providers, the many restaurants offer various versions of seafood and the markets are filled with river fish, some dried, some kept alive in little tanks, and some just dead.
To get to Luang Prabang from Vang Vieng, the reasonably short distance of 250 km could be made comfortably in two and a half hours. If it was central Europe we were talking about. But the Laotian infrastructure wants differently: Narrow, windy (and probably windy) roads serpentine their way through the beautiful mountains, and potholes is the rule rather than the exception. Tarpaulin is sparse, and bumps are aplenty, and so the seven hour journey is a pleasant one for the eye, but not for the arse.
Speaking of sore body parts, every third shop in Luang Prabang (the others are restaurants and travel agents) seems to be a massage parlour. The Laotian full body will only cost you 35 000 kip (roughly €3,50) and is well worth it, and a perfect follow-up to the sunset cruise upon the river we took.
Being a mountainous region, there are plenty of beautiful waterfalls to visits. Being the end of the dry season, however, none but one had actual water to offer. Kueang Si waterfall was very scenic, its many pools very refreshing and its rope swing very worth the waiting in line. And to boot, they had a bear rescue centre close by, which is always cool.
With two rivers meeting, Luang Prabang is a natural trading town for the area. As such, both the morning market with its plethora of fish, vegetables, meat and birds* and the night market with its vast selection of arts and handicrafts and tacky t-shirts are crowded and busy. And at the nightmarket I got the presents I needed for my niece and nephew, so that's all sorted.
And the story of the Mekong continues. Our method of travelling out from Laos and cross the border back to Thailand was by riverboat, slowly making its way upstream. Compared to the bumpy minivan rides along the not quite finished roads, this is one way of travelling in style. At ridiculous o'clock the others got up to feed the monks, and slightly later we all got ready to board our own private riverboat, preparing for our two days cruise to the Thai border.
Though not much was happening, the river cruise was indeed relaxing. Lots of talking, delicious Laotian on-board lunch buffet, beer and pastis and a few games of Werewolf. After a visit to the Buddha cave, watching the buffaloes (and some albino buffaloes) bathing in the shallow waters and seeing the locals panning for some of the gold the Mekong is supposedly full of, we reached shore and spent the night at the sleepy little town of Pakbeng.
Sleepy, except for the Hive, a bar where Kim, Isa and I went and somehow concocted a cunning plan to get free shots: Isa and I were newly married and was on our honeymoon with Kim, who played the part of Isa's mum and therefore my mother-in-law. The charade worked (even though they questioned the curious fact that we were from three different countries) and we enjoyed our free shots.
The following day was fairly similar to the previous, and we crossed the border to Thailand, having dinner and accomodation in the border town of Chiang Khong.
*) Not only chicken, but they also provide small, caged birds the SE Asians use to set free in order to get good luck

Pictures & Video

1 More Laotian Landscape
1 More Laotian Landscape
2 Sunset on the Mekong
2 Sunset on the Mekong
3 Bear spa 4 Waterfall 5 Prospectors 6 Sixty-six million Buddhas
6 Sixty-six million Buddhas
7 Our own private riverboat
7 Our own private riverboat
Back to my 'Indochine 2012' blog