Muchos Moches

Before the Inca, there were the Moches. A proud civilization of fishermen, brickmakers, farmers and potters inhabited the northern parts of pacific coast Perú.They were excellent craftsmen, making intricate masks and ornaments of gold, silver and copper. They perfected the irrigation systems. They were proud warriors and magnificent mariners. They were also barbaric and performed human sacrifices to their pantheon, most notably their creator god, Ai-Aepec. They built huge temples, using slave labour, that served as palaces for the high priests and the kings. And when the king died, his up to 44 wives were generously given a choice: Drink the deadly poison of the local cactus, or get their heads cut off. Clearly they needed to get buried with the late king, along with his servants, guards and llamas.All of this was displayed at Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan and in the still being excavated Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon). Amazing exhibition, amazing ruins. These guys were as advanced as ever the Mayans and the Incas, but has drawn the short straw in the lottery of life, and faded into historical obscurity.In Huanchaco, the event of the year took place. It's Big, it's Meaty, it's Bally. It's the first ever annual MEATBALLOFF. Three Swedes, yours truly being one of them, with a bowl of mincemeat and varios condiments showed off their cooking skills. The balls were judged on taste, texture and form, and in the end there could be only one winner. And that was, of course, so not me. But I claimed the bronze!Incidentally, my belly and I were once again the bestest of friends.