Fins, mask and ATM

Latin America consists of all countries in the Americas where the main language is based on Latin (most often Spanish, but also French and Portuguese), so basically Mexico and southwards. But one little country stands out from the rest: In Belize English is the official language, and that's where we were heading next.
A short drive from the border lies Belize City (curiously neither the capital, nor the largest city) and from there we jumped on board the water taxi to Caye Caulker. A relaxed little island in the Caribbean with many lobster restaurants and no bitumen, this is a haven for backpackers all year round, but especially during high season. This was low season, though, and the local motto 'Go slow' was heeded. Next morning the others went away in the morning to go snorkeling, but I had deeper thoughts. I perused the local dive shops in search of a refresher dive (it's been almost two years since last I dived (dove?)) that day and a full day to Belize's famous Blue Hole the following day.
The sea was angry that day, my friends! As were the heavens. Rain and wind stopped the dive tours, and I had to hope for better conditions for the day after. And indeed, the sun was smiling, and I finally got into the blue. The first was simply doing the basics, including finding the regulator and the mask, at no depth and little wildlife. The second was a proper dive at the local reef, although only down to 7 metres. As this was the last day on the island, there was unfortunately no time to go to the Blue Hole (or to pay the USD250 it would have cost), but at least I will be immediately ready to go into the deep the next time opportunity knocks.
In the pouring rain the boat brought us back to the mainland, and from there, San Ignacio. The town itself has little to offer (though cosy) other than the shop where three of us bought Jenny brand raincoats, but SI is where many tours to the surrounding jungles, rivers, ruins and mountains start.
I had heard, from many different people and sources, that THE thing to do in Belize is the Actun Tunichil Muknal caves, more commonly known as the ATM caves.
Once more the weather stopped me from doing what I intended: The rain had fallen heavily in the mountains, and the river that flows in the cave system was 50 cm too high, and so the trip was cancelled.
That might actually had been a good thing, though: Instead of ATM, four of us signed up for the strenuous caving option. A small group, consisting of us four and a couple we picked up along the way and two local guides, started hiking through the jungle, across rivers of ants, slippery mud and treacherous roots. Eventually we reached the entrance to Crystal Cave, and the real adventure could begin.
This was proper caving. There were no concrete footpath, no lights, no exit signs. Just us, the guide, our helmet mounted torches and the spectacularity of the cave. Sometimes squeezing through narrow openings, sometimes climbing sheer walls, always struggling to find footing, often sliding on mud covered rocks.
The cave system was well worth the effort in and of itself. Beautiful stalactites and stalagmites, curtains of lime stone, shiny crystals, glittering specks of quartz; neither words, nor photos can describe the otherworldliness of the underground kingdom. Yet, in addition, we also got to see ancient artifacts and human bones, just as we would have at the ATM caves. We were three persons per guide, we had the whole cave complex to ourselves, the guide informed us of all the morbid and creepifying rituals that used to take place in this, for the Mayans, representation of the Underworld. With sore and aching muscles, and clothes covered in mud and sweat, it was a relief to jump in the underground river after the hike back to cool down and wash the mud away.
Basically, we got to do and see all we would have at ATM, and we didn't have to rush, explanations took the time they needed, and we were allowed to take photos. So, I honestly think that the caving option actually is the better choice.
Back in town, the shakey and slow internet informed me that Radiohead will be playing in Sweden next summer. Unable to fix tickets myself (buying concert tickets online usually needs high speed and an actual computer), I asked a friend back home who were also keen on going to pretty please buy one for me as well. The good news of next year's concert was celebrated by me grabbing the mike at the local karaoke bar and performing, to the others' cheers and applause, Creep. Explicit lyrics.